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German Whist

German Whist is a very simple game.  Each player is dealt thirteen cards.  The remaining twenty-six cards are placed face downwards between the players and the top card is turned face upwards to denote the trump suit.
            The non-dealer leads to the first trick.  Thereafter the player who wins a trick leads to the next, and so on.  A player must follow suit if he can.  If he cannot he may either trump or discard.  The winner of a trick takes into his hand the exposed card from the top of the stock: the loser takes the next card from the stock (he does not show it to his opponent) and turns up the next card of the stock.

            When the stock is exhausted, the players play out the remaining thirteen cards, and at this stage of the game the player with a good memory will know exactly which cards his opponent holds.
            The game is complete in one deal, and the player who wins the majority of tricks receives an agreed number of points per trick for all in excess of those won by his opponent.  If both players win thirteen tricks, there is, of course, no score.

            Although German whist is a simple game it offers good memory training for those who aspire to succeed at more advanced games, and, at the same time, gives exercise in the technique of card play.
            If a player holds a strong trump suit he should lead his trumps early in the game so as to command the game in the later stages of the play, and if the exposed card is a trump it is always good play to make an effort to win it.
            On the other hand, it is not always good play to win a trick.  Much depends on the value of the exposed card.  The 9 is exposed.  West leads the 7 and East holds Q 6 3.  East should play 3 , and allow West to win the trick.  It is not worth while wasting the Q which should be kept in hand for better things  later in the game.  By contrary, if the J is exposed card, east should win the trick with Q , because now he is exchanging the Q for an equivalent card and adding a trick to his total.
            It is advisable to hold command of as many suits as possible, because it enables one to take a trick whenever the exposed card is worth winning, without losing control of the suit.
            West holds the hand opposite.

            Spades are trumps, and the exposed card is K ♣.
            The K ♣ is worth winning, but leading the A ♣ is not the best play.  West will win the trick, but the value of his hand will remain unchanged.  West should prefer to lead the K , because if it wins the trick his hand will be that much better, and if East is able to win the trick with the A , West’s Q has been promoted to top Diamond.

Gin Rummy

Many variations of rummy are known, but for two players the one generally preferred is Gin Rummy with the Hollywood scoring, so called because during the war it was taken up with much publicity by the cinema stars.
            The game is played with a full pack of fifty-two cards that rank from King (high) to Ace (low).  The player cut to determine who deals first, but, thereafter, the player who wins a hand deals for the next one.
            Ten cards are dealt to each player and the next card is turned face upwards and placed on the table between the players; it is known as the up-card.  The rest of the pack is placed faced downwards alongside it.
            The object of the game is to meld one’s cards into sets of three or four of the same suit, and into sequences of three or more of the same suit, and into sequences of three or more of the same suit.  Sets and sequences must be independent of each other: a player is not allowed to meld the same card into a sequence and a set.

            The non-dealer has first choice of taking the up-card into his hand.  If he does not, he must offer it to the dealer.  If either player takes the up-card, he discards a card from his hand face upwards on the table.  If neither player takes the up-card, the non-dealer takes the top card of the stock and discards a card from his hand to cover the up-card.  The dealer then has the option of taking into his hand either the card that the non-dealer has discarded or the top card of the stock.  When he has taken one of them into his hand, he, too, discards a card from his hand.  The discards are placed one on top of the other, so that only the card immediately discarded can be seen, and the discard pile must not be examined by the players while the deal is in play.

            Play continues in this way- each player in turn either taking the top card of the discard pile or the top card of the stock- until one of them elects to go down (called knocking) or there are only two cards left in the stock.  Neither may be drawn, and if the player who draws the fiftieth card discards without knocking, the deal is declared a draw; neither player scores and the same dealer deals again.
            The player who knocks must do so after drawing a card and discarding, and his unmelded cards must not exceed a total of 10 points –court cards count 10 points each and the others their pip values.
            Unless a player has declared gin (i.e. knocked with all his cards melded) his opponent can reduce his loss by adding cards from his hand to the melds exposed by his opponent.
            North, who has not declared gin, knocks with the melds on the right.

            South holds in his hand:
            ♠ J 6 3 2 ♥ Q A Q J ♣ K 6
and reduces his loss by adding the 6♠ and A ♥ to North’s sequences, and the K ♣ to his set of Kings.
            Play now ceases, and the score is made up as follows:

  1. The unmelded cards of the players are totaled to determine their respective point-counts.
  2. A player who has declared gin scores 25 points plus his opponent’s point-count.
  3. If gin has not been declared: if the knocker’s point-count is less than that of his opponent’s, the knocker wins the hand and scores the difference between the two point-counts; if the opponent’s point-count is less than that of the knocker or if the two point-counts are equal, the opponent wins the deal and scores 20 points for undercutting plus the difference (if any) between the two point-counts.

The scores are recorded on a sheet of paper ruled as follows:




































            Every deal won and score entered is known as a box.  The first time that a player scores he enters the points in the first column only.  The second time that he scores he enters them in the second column and adds them to his score in the first column.  The third time that he scores he enters them in the third column and adds them to the scores last entered in the first and second columns.  Thereafter, every time that a player scores he adds his score to the scores last entered in all three columns.
            When the score of a player in a column reaches a total of 100 points or more, the column is closed.  The winner of a column scores 100 points for winning it, and a further  20 points for each box that he has won in excess of those won by his opponent.  If, however, the opponent has won more boxes than the winner of the column, the opponent scores 20 points for each box that he has won in excess of those won  by the winner of the column.

            If a player fails to score in any column he is blitzed, and the total score of the winner of the column is doubled.  The player who has been blitzed in any column makes his first, or second, score in the next column which has not been won.
            The game ends when all three columns, his final score is determined by adding together the total scores of all three columns.  If a player wins two columns (his opponent one column) the final score is determined by adding together the total scores of the winner of the two columns, and subtracting the lower score from the higher.


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